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Supplies for New Pup Owners
In order to keep your warranty in effect, and to provide your veterinarian a baseline for health, take your pup to your local vet for a new-puppy health check within three days of his/her pick-up date. I will send a health/shot/worming record with your pup, so your vet will know what inoculations s/he has received and when more puppy shots are due. While on the phone with your veterinarian, ask what puppy food s/he recommends--or if you have some brands in mind, ask your vet what s/he thinks of them). You will receive a small amount of pup food when you pick up your puppy (Science Diet Puppy). Mix the food you have purchased with the food from Xanadoodle to ease the transition to a new diet, if you make a transition. Science Diet is highly digestable for young pups and older dogs.
Your puppy should be offered food (at least) 4 times a day; s/he can eat all s/he wants in 15 min., then take the food away until the next feeding time. Water should be available for your pup all the time. After a while, you may notice that your pup is NOT hungry quite so often; then you can offer food less often—then three. When s/he's a really BIG pup, and does not get hungry around lunch time, s/he can eat twice a day like a grown-up dog.
You'll need dog bowls for food and water. I really do like the stainless steel best, but any good puppy bowls are fine. Probably you use filtered water for drinking. Let the pup have filtered water, too.
Often you can find a baby gate second hand, AND they are GOOD to have. If your pup arrives by air, s/he will have a crate--which s/he’ll outgrow--but I'd wait as long as you can before purchasing another one UNLESS your pup rides in the car often. Having an appropriate-sized crate is the best way to keep a puppy safe in the car and for the driver to be less distracted. Use a seat belt to secure the crate.
I purchased a 2-foot high free-standing collapsable fence--hinges every couple of feet--for my last litter. These fences are available in varying heights. They will stand in a circle or sort-of-rectangle or an oval and have closures on one side. You can even put two lengths together. The pet shop has these fences, but I liked the ones sold at Murdock's / other farm and ranch supply stores better. You won't need anything over 3 feet high--I don't think. Mine is 2 feet tall and easy to step over. Of course, big breed pups will need taller, stronger gates/fences until house training is not so much a worry.
START SAVING NEWSPAPERS NOW TO LINE THE ENCLOSURE of your new puppy's space COMPLETELY. As pup learns WHERE to go, you can GRADUALLY remove papers around food and water, bedding, and his/her play area. Save the newspaper that is in the pup's crate when you get home with your baby! Then you'll have something with valuable pee-perfume to put at the far end of the pup's new enclosure. Save one piece of not-very-soiled paper each day to mark where the pup SHOULD go the next time fresh papers are put down. All Xanadoodle puppies have a headstart on potty training.
If your pup arrives by air, you'll need a small collar and a leash. Bring them to the airport, because puppy may need to pee at a convenient spot after you pick her/him up. Tell the person at your pet store/Walmarts/etc. that your new pup is about the size of a Golden Retriever pup; get that size collar. Ask if this collar can be returned, if it is not the right size for your puppy. COLLAR AND HALTER SIZES VARY FROM BRAND TO BRAND, and not all small or medium-sizes are the same size. Also, bring a doggie-poo bag. And bring a small towel. S/he'll have her first bath before s/he flies to you, but her coat may have become soiled during the flight. If you are driving, a towel and a newspaper may be handy.
There's one more thing, especially if your pup is traveling home alone with you in your car or in its crate--bring earplugs. Even the smallest breeds of pups have sharp voices. And if you forget the earplugs, moisten a small part of a tissue so it will confirm to the opening to your ear canal, and use the tissue as an ear plug. Works just as well, I think. Trust me on this one--earplugs--you can thank me later...
If your pup comes directly from XANADU headquarters, your puppy has been eating Science Diet Puppy Food AND Natural Balance Lamb Formula and Science Diet. Also, the pups have been taking a puppy stage multivitamin called VitaPet Puppy, which you can order online, if you like.
If you drive to pick up your pup, puppy will have a small travel bag from Xanadoodle. The bag contains a toy that his litter mates have all been playing with, and that may help with his/her adjustment. Familiar smells are comforting. Puppy will have some food that he/she is used to. His/her puppy shot record and worming information will also be in his/her bag. The airlines do not permit quite so many articles to be included with your pup's crate.
I think it is best to go to a pet shop or Walmart to begin with--and buy some American-made toys there. The pet shop should have sturdy toys that will not be easily chewed up and will not have small pieces that a growing pup can choke on. When I send a pup home, I usually include a toy that the litter has been playing with, so the pup will have a toy with a familiar smell of home and mother and siblings. Your puppy needs a strong dog-toy. I like balls--about tennis-ball size. Find balls that are safe at the pet shop. Pups like toys that rattle and squeek. Toys with ropes to pull are very popular with puppies also.
The next time you go to the grocery store, buy a bottle of Listerine. There are no-chew-on-this products at the pet shop—like Bitter Apple, but Listerine is a chewing deterrant also when put on electrical cords or rug edges, your shoes, etc., and is not as expensive.
Puppy needs a bed. And puppy’s bed should be washable. To begin with, purchase an inexpensive bed, because s/he will chew on the corners and quickly outgrow it.
And I sleep on the floor with a new puppy for the first night. If it’s OK with you for your dog to be on the couch or in your bed, that’s OK, too, but once that habit is established, it is hard to discourage. Secure the sleeping area, so your puppy doesn’t fall.
Of course, you are ALWAYS welcome to contact me; I love to talk about the puppies, and I LOVE to get pictures, too. And don’t worry. In just a couple of days, you will be the expert.
Sheron (970) 626-9747
XANADOODLE.com
Your puppy should be offered food (at least) 4 times a day; s/he can eat all s/he wants in 15 min., then take the food away until the next feeding time. Water should be available for your pup all the time. After a while, you may notice that your pup is NOT hungry quite so often; then you can offer food less often—then three. When s/he's a really BIG pup, and does not get hungry around lunch time, s/he can eat twice a day like a grown-up dog.
You'll need dog bowls for food and water. I really do like the stainless steel best, but any good puppy bowls are fine. Probably you use filtered water for drinking. Let the pup have filtered water, too.
Often you can find a baby gate second hand, AND they are GOOD to have. If your pup arrives by air, s/he will have a crate--which s/he’ll outgrow--but I'd wait as long as you can before purchasing another one UNLESS your pup rides in the car often. Having an appropriate-sized crate is the best way to keep a puppy safe in the car and for the driver to be less distracted. Use a seat belt to secure the crate.
I purchased a 2-foot high free-standing collapsable fence--hinges every couple of feet--for my last litter. These fences are available in varying heights. They will stand in a circle or sort-of-rectangle or an oval and have closures on one side. You can even put two lengths together. The pet shop has these fences, but I liked the ones sold at Murdock's / other farm and ranch supply stores better. You won't need anything over 3 feet high--I don't think. Mine is 2 feet tall and easy to step over. Of course, big breed pups will need taller, stronger gates/fences until house training is not so much a worry.
START SAVING NEWSPAPERS NOW TO LINE THE ENCLOSURE of your new puppy's space COMPLETELY. As pup learns WHERE to go, you can GRADUALLY remove papers around food and water, bedding, and his/her play area. Save the newspaper that is in the pup's crate when you get home with your baby! Then you'll have something with valuable pee-perfume to put at the far end of the pup's new enclosure. Save one piece of not-very-soiled paper each day to mark where the pup SHOULD go the next time fresh papers are put down. All Xanadoodle puppies have a headstart on potty training.
If your pup arrives by air, you'll need a small collar and a leash. Bring them to the airport, because puppy may need to pee at a convenient spot after you pick her/him up. Tell the person at your pet store/Walmarts/etc. that your new pup is about the size of a Golden Retriever pup; get that size collar. Ask if this collar can be returned, if it is not the right size for your puppy. COLLAR AND HALTER SIZES VARY FROM BRAND TO BRAND, and not all small or medium-sizes are the same size. Also, bring a doggie-poo bag. And bring a small towel. S/he'll have her first bath before s/he flies to you, but her coat may have become soiled during the flight. If you are driving, a towel and a newspaper may be handy.
There's one more thing, especially if your pup is traveling home alone with you in your car or in its crate--bring earplugs. Even the smallest breeds of pups have sharp voices. And if you forget the earplugs, moisten a small part of a tissue so it will confirm to the opening to your ear canal, and use the tissue as an ear plug. Works just as well, I think. Trust me on this one--earplugs--you can thank me later...
If your pup comes directly from XANADU headquarters, your puppy has been eating Science Diet Puppy Food AND Natural Balance Lamb Formula and Science Diet. Also, the pups have been taking a puppy stage multivitamin called VitaPet Puppy, which you can order online, if you like.
If you drive to pick up your pup, puppy will have a small travel bag from Xanadoodle. The bag contains a toy that his litter mates have all been playing with, and that may help with his/her adjustment. Familiar smells are comforting. Puppy will have some food that he/she is used to. His/her puppy shot record and worming information will also be in his/her bag. The airlines do not permit quite so many articles to be included with your pup's crate.
I think it is best to go to a pet shop or Walmart to begin with--and buy some American-made toys there. The pet shop should have sturdy toys that will not be easily chewed up and will not have small pieces that a growing pup can choke on. When I send a pup home, I usually include a toy that the litter has been playing with, so the pup will have a toy with a familiar smell of home and mother and siblings. Your puppy needs a strong dog-toy. I like balls--about tennis-ball size. Find balls that are safe at the pet shop. Pups like toys that rattle and squeek. Toys with ropes to pull are very popular with puppies also.
The next time you go to the grocery store, buy a bottle of Listerine. There are no-chew-on-this products at the pet shop—like Bitter Apple, but Listerine is a chewing deterrant also when put on electrical cords or rug edges, your shoes, etc., and is not as expensive.
Puppy needs a bed. And puppy’s bed should be washable. To begin with, purchase an inexpensive bed, because s/he will chew on the corners and quickly outgrow it.
And I sleep on the floor with a new puppy for the first night. If it’s OK with you for your dog to be on the couch or in your bed, that’s OK, too, but once that habit is established, it is hard to discourage. Secure the sleeping area, so your puppy doesn’t fall.
Of course, you are ALWAYS welcome to contact me; I love to talk about the puppies, and I LOVE to get pictures, too. And don’t worry. In just a couple of days, you will be the expert.
Sheron (970) 626-9747
XANADOODLE.com
Housetraining Your Pup
Following is a potty and crate-training schedule below for your new puppy—or you can read The Tao of Puppy, Chapter 3 (and other pages—see Index). Maybe these suggestions will help or maybe you could tell me a thing or two now!
My best to each you and your new baby,
Sheron and XANADU Pack
Puppies miss the company of his/her litter-pack. They have never been alone before. I think all pups cry sometimes when they are alone. Here's how I manage my puppy’s time, so s/he can spend more time with me:
Hang a bell on the doorknob of the door through which you take your pup outside. Make sure to ring the bell with the puppy's paw when you go outside with him/her.
As much as possible, take him/her through the door on a leash. S/he needs to see himself taking responsibility for walking to the door—seeing the familiar on-the-way-to-the-door objects all along the way, etc. (see Tao of Puppy for leash training). Pick up his/her paw and ring the bell. At some time, your good dog will ring his bell when s/he needs to go outside--or when s/he just WANTS to go outside. Give him/her a tiny treat when s/he rings the bell--even if you are managing his paw for him/her.
When I'm training a new pup, I roll up rugs and stand them in a corner somewhere. If you've got wall-to-wall carpets, you can't do that, but you can--
As your puppy grows and gets expectations about the outhouse are under control, extend play-around-the-house by 5 min. each time s/he comes in from a successful potty break. Then you can extend indoor time another 5 min. and another 5 min. after several more successful days until you are letting him/her out hourly. If s/he DOES mess the floor, reduce the schedule by 5 min. But if you forgot to let your pup out on time and there’s an accident, well, is that puppy’s fault?
When you are pretty sure s/he's not going to mess in his/her crate (and that should be within a day after you get your puppy), you can enlarge his/her space (pups don't really like to mess up an area where they eat or play—and these pups are already used to going potty at the FAR end of their play pen. If you have to be gone, be sure s/he has a newspaper lightly perfumed with his/her pee-scent in his/her area. If s/he uses his/her paper when you were gone over his/her usual hold-it-in time, s/he's still a very good dog!
USE A TINY TREAT EVERY TIME YOUR PUPPY DOES SOMETHING RIGHT. Tiny means as little as your little fingernail. Maybe it’s a bit of bacon, turkey, chicken--whatever. Do NOT treat at other times.
Begin other training now, too: Getting used to a collar takes about a day; letting him/her drag a leash around and be happy about that may take another day. Not arguing with you when you pick up the leash and s/he can't run away may take longer. Walking around on a leash--longer. Walking NICELY on a leash is part of obedience training, and very important for his/her safety.
Teach him/her to come and to sit (see your pup-training book), to lie down, etc.
Most of ALL, enjoy your puppy and DO NOT WORRY. Even if it were possible to do something wrong today, puppy will give you a thousand more chances during the weeks and months and years of tomorrow.
Dogs enjoy obedience training, because of the immediate attention and treats and praise, AND MOST OF ALL BECAUSE Dogs WANT to know what you expect. As some point, increase praise and decrease treats. Encourage all along the way. Be consistent as a family with puppy expectations. Ask your family members if they can read these suggestions, then discuss them and see what fits with your lifestyle. Just like your new puppy needs a potty schedule, your family members can be on duty for certain hours of the day, so YOU don’t have to do it all.
REMEMBER, THIS IS ONE SMART PUPPY; YOU ARE THE PACK LEADER.
MY VERY BEST TO YOU AND YOUR BABY AND YOUR FAMILY,
Sheron & XANADU of the Rockies
My best to each you and your new baby,
Sheron and XANADU Pack
Puppies miss the company of his/her litter-pack. They have never been alone before. I think all pups cry sometimes when they are alone. Here's how I manage my puppy’s time, so s/he can spend more time with me:
Hang a bell on the doorknob of the door through which you take your pup outside. Make sure to ring the bell with the puppy's paw when you go outside with him/her.
As much as possible, take him/her through the door on a leash. S/he needs to see himself taking responsibility for walking to the door—seeing the familiar on-the-way-to-the-door objects all along the way, etc. (see Tao of Puppy for leash training). Pick up his/her paw and ring the bell. At some time, your good dog will ring his bell when s/he needs to go outside--or when s/he just WANTS to go outside. Give him/her a tiny treat when s/he rings the bell--even if you are managing his paw for him/her.
When I'm training a new pup, I roll up rugs and stand them in a corner somewhere. If you've got wall-to-wall carpets, you can't do that, but you can--
- Make sure s/he has toys that s/he likes to play with.
- Take him/her out first thing when s/he wakes up in the morning—easy if s/he sleeps in a crate by your bed or snuggles up with you.
- Take him/her outside 10 min. later, too.
- Take him/her out again after breakfast and water.
- ANY TIME S/HE DOES NOT PEE OR POO OUTSIDE, S/HE HAS TO GO TO HIS/HER CRATE for 20 min.--even if s/he cries. Then s/he goes outside again--and s/he better pee or poo or it's inside the crate again.
- Take him/her outside after playtime.
- Take him/her outside after naps.
- And take him/her outside every 45 min. It is simple to set a kitchen timer.
As your puppy grows and gets expectations about the outhouse are under control, extend play-around-the-house by 5 min. each time s/he comes in from a successful potty break. Then you can extend indoor time another 5 min. and another 5 min. after several more successful days until you are letting him/her out hourly. If s/he DOES mess the floor, reduce the schedule by 5 min. But if you forgot to let your pup out on time and there’s an accident, well, is that puppy’s fault?
When you are pretty sure s/he's not going to mess in his/her crate (and that should be within a day after you get your puppy), you can enlarge his/her space (pups don't really like to mess up an area where they eat or play—and these pups are already used to going potty at the FAR end of their play pen. If you have to be gone, be sure s/he has a newspaper lightly perfumed with his/her pee-scent in his/her area. If s/he uses his/her paper when you were gone over his/her usual hold-it-in time, s/he's still a very good dog!
USE A TINY TREAT EVERY TIME YOUR PUPPY DOES SOMETHING RIGHT. Tiny means as little as your little fingernail. Maybe it’s a bit of bacon, turkey, chicken--whatever. Do NOT treat at other times.
Begin other training now, too: Getting used to a collar takes about a day; letting him/her drag a leash around and be happy about that may take another day. Not arguing with you when you pick up the leash and s/he can't run away may take longer. Walking around on a leash--longer. Walking NICELY on a leash is part of obedience training, and very important for his/her safety.
Teach him/her to come and to sit (see your pup-training book), to lie down, etc.
Most of ALL, enjoy your puppy and DO NOT WORRY. Even if it were possible to do something wrong today, puppy will give you a thousand more chances during the weeks and months and years of tomorrow.
Dogs enjoy obedience training, because of the immediate attention and treats and praise, AND MOST OF ALL BECAUSE Dogs WANT to know what you expect. As some point, increase praise and decrease treats. Encourage all along the way. Be consistent as a family with puppy expectations. Ask your family members if they can read these suggestions, then discuss them and see what fits with your lifestyle. Just like your new puppy needs a potty schedule, your family members can be on duty for certain hours of the day, so YOU don’t have to do it all.
REMEMBER, THIS IS ONE SMART PUPPY; YOU ARE THE PACK LEADER.
MY VERY BEST TO YOU AND YOUR BABY AND YOUR FAMILY,
Sheron & XANADU of the Rockies